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At the Green Edge of Scandinavian Folk Art

Lucy Tokheim Folk Art Design Collection
  • New Gallery
  • About
  • Collections At the Green Edge
  • Traditional Folk Art on Pottery
  • Contemporary Folk Art on Pottery
  • Raulands Akademiet
  • Designing from Folk Art
  • Recent Drawings/Paintings/Photographs

 "SOUL LIFE LOVES REPETITION, SLOWNESS, CONTEMPLATION, MEMORY, DREAMING, DRAMA AND CIRCUITOUS INEFFICIENCY."  ROBERT SARDELLO, THE POWER OF SOUL

Weaving in Rauland

In 1989 our family spent 8 months at the Rauland Academy in Telemark. All of us had a wonderful year, learning, skiing, and looking at marvels of scenery and craft. We all agree this year changed our lives.

Detail of Sunniva Tapestry
Detail of Sunniva Tapestry

I began this tapestry the year before we went to Rauland on a large frame loom Gene made for me. I completed it when we got home.

Sunniva Brings the Good News North
Sunniva Brings the Good News North

Sunniva journeyed from Ireland in a coracle before she became the patron saint of West Norway. You can read more of her in Sigrid Undset's Kristin Lavransdatter.  I treasured Lila Nelson's comment that I had created a haunting image ( in spite of other technical difficulties). I have indeed been haunted by ancient tapestries made by women working on their handmade looms.

We arrived at the Academy in time for Julebukking
We arrived at the Academy in time for Julebukking
Haunting Hardanger fiddle music floated through the school day and night
Haunting Hardanger fiddle music floated through the school day and night
This contemporary weaving greeted all visitor to the Academy
This contemporary weaving greeted all visitor to the Academy
Elevenses coffee break for teachers and students. Mari, my textile teacher and Leif Romtveit, Gene's knifemaking teacher sit in front of glorious traditional tapestry.
Elevenses coffee break for teachers and students. Mari, my textile teacher and Leif Romtveit, Gene's knifemaking teacher sit in front of glorious traditional tapestry.
Rauland's architecture was endlessly fascinating.
Rauland's architecture was endlessly fascinating.
Rosemaled cornice ovremo.jpeg
Rauland.jpg
We brought the spark kick sleds back to US with us, but they are better suited to mountain snow conditions
We brought the spark kick sleds back to US with us, but they are better suited to mountain snow conditions
Ann-Mari and Tjur throwing pots.
Ann-Mari and Tjur throwing pots.

Wonderful Ann-Mari with Tjur!  She helped us accomplish so much, in addition to being the go to administrator at the Academy. She had recently designed the Telemark Ski Sweater worn by Norwegian teams at the Olympics in 1994.

Sami Belt with Reindeer Horn Buckle
Sami Belt with Reindeer Horn Buckle

I used the backstrap loom style with a rigid heddle to weave this belt in traditional Sami colors and wrapped tassels.

Gene at norsk I America exhibit.jpeg
Påske with the Refsals
Påske with the Refsals

Harley Refsal took this photo. The Refsals were a big part of the fun that we all had during this study time in Rauland.

Oistein kostveit.jpeg
Sam and Ben w Ale Goose in Rauland 1989.jpeg
Biking to the academy.jpeg
Ruteåkle Runner
Ruteåkle Runner

I chose to weave this traditional tapestry design mostly for its simple colors and wonderful borders. 

Student exhibit at Rauland.jpeg
Astrid and Ingrid help Mormor pose in her Telemark Bunad.
Astrid and Ingrid help Mormor pose in her Telemark Bunad.
Double weave small runner done in Vesterheim class
Double weave small runner done in Vesterheim class

In Norway I admired the large wonderful wall hangings done in double weave. After returning home I was able to take a course in this technique.

Setesdal Project

One of Mari Rorgemoen's textile projects for her Academy students was making a "fantasi bunad." I designed an overall dress based on the Setesdal man's bunad, which had exciting accessories like leather suspender straps, silver buttons and leather riding boots. The style was archaic, less refined than other bunads, and better suited to herding things up and down the mountain valleys.

Detail Lucy's s embroidery .jpg
My Setesdal fantasi bunad in progress
My Setesdal fantasi bunad in progress

The material of the men's bunad was wadmal with applied black and green wool. I loved the goatskin trim and leather straps with handmade buckles. The unusual embroidery was done over a linen grid to help count stitches and place design. 

DSC_0076.JPG
Setesdal kafte jacket.jpeg
Lucy's design drawing for Setesdal fantasi bunad.jpg
Setesdal bunad embroidery pattern drawing.jpg
Preliminary drawings for bunad and embroidery
Preliminary drawings for bunad and embroidery
I visited Setesdal during its summer Kappeleik for marvelous dancing and fiddling
I visited Setesdal during its summer Kappeleik for marvelous dancing and fiddling

This book has wonderful old and new photos of Setesdal folk wearing bunads. 

Setesdal bunad couple.jpeg
Master Bunad Shoemaker
Master Bunad Shoemaker

Marit, the silver teacher brought me to see Asbjørn Bjørgum and his wife Tore when we were in Setesdal so that I could order some handmade riding boots, another extremely attractive accessory of the Setesdal Men's bunad.

These riding boots are one of my most prized possesions
These riding boots are one of my most prized possesions
Aagot Noss booklet on how to make Setesdal bunads
Aagot Noss booklet on how to make Setesdal bunads

Aagot Noss took a scholarly  approach in her booklets about different textile techniques, including step-by step diagrams on how to do them yourself.

Greetings from the Folk School in Rauland
Greetings from the Folk School in Rauland

Marit Anderson on the right, a silver instructor at the Academy and Marit Rysstad, a Setesdal silversmith with our friend Harley Refsal, all of whom helped with my study project on the Setesdal Bunad. 

Posing with Gene in my Setesdal dress
Posing with Gene in my Setesdal dress
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Back to Raulands Akademiet
Detail of Sunniva Tapestry
22
Weaving in Rauland
14
Setesdal Project